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Mt Aconcagua & Marmolejo

Highmountain > Expeditions > Mountaineering > Santiago and Central Andes > Mt Aconcagua & Marmolejo
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Aconcagua marmolejo climbing expedition

Mt Aconcagua & Marmolejo

The highest mountain in America and the southernmost 6000

Location Argentina & Chile
Height 6953 M / 6108 M
Length 22 Days
Price USD $

  • Trip grade
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Book this Expeditions now!
  • Overview
  • Dates and Prices
  • Itinerary
  • Includes
  • More Info
  • Gear List
  • Photos
  • Fixed Departures

Overview

Overview

Our program reach two Andes icons, the highest mountain in South America and the Southernmost 6000 in the world, mt Marmolejo (6108masl). We climb Marmolejo to have the best posible acclimatization process before try Aconcagua.

In 8 days in Chile we reach summit in Marmolejo, another day resting in Santiago and another 10 days in the Parque Provincial Aconcagua including 1 extra day to attemp summit in case of bad weather.

Aconcagua is the highest Mountain along the Andes Range and named by the Quechua culture as the White Sentinel, similar to what was called by the Aymara culture who named it The Stone Sentinel. It is placed in Argentina very close to the Chilean capital city of Santiago. Annually it is visited by hundreds of mountaineers from all around the world who are trying to achieve this objective which is without further questions, a great challenge to any mountaineer professional.

Highlight

  • Acclimaziation in the last huge 6000 of the south of the world “Mt Marmolejo”
  • Itinerary perfectly designed to conquer the summit of Aconcagua
  • View of the most important peaks of the Central Andes, as Tupungato, Mercedario and Junkal
  • Porters are included in Marmolejo to carry the comun gear to high camps, without extra cost
  • 2 days off to replenish energy and wash clothes before climbing Aconcagua
  • Visit the most famous valley near Santiago “Cajon del Maipo”, where we make a trekking
  • We will travel by night from Santiago to Mendoza to optimize rest and transfer time
  • Santiago airport has the best connectivity to airlines of Europe and North America

Expedition’s schema

  • Program length: 22 days
  • Max. Altitude: 6959 m / 22615 ft
  • Location: Mendoza, Argentina / Santiago, Chile
  • Slope: 4500 m / 14764 ft from Puente del Inca
  • Season: November to March
  • Difficulty: This is not a technical track, but it is physically challenging
  • First ascent: 1897 by Mathias Zubriggen and Edward Fitzgerald (sz)
  • Expedition Team size: max 9 climbers + the mountain guides

Dates and Prices

Dates & Prices

Private Service: You choose the best convenience date for you and your group. Price depending on number of people booked.

Itinerary

Itinerary and service (per day)

Day 1: Airport / Hostel transfer

This Day we meet at the hotel or in our agency to review the itinerary, guides presentation and check the personal equipment.

  • Max altitude: 500 masl
  • Lodging: Hostel
  • Meals: no
  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van
  • Scheme: Airport pick up and transfer to hostel, equipment checking

Day 2: Santiago / Baños Morales / Trekking San Francisco Glacier

  • Max altitude: 2500 masl
  • Lodging: Refuge
  • Meals: box-lunch, diner
  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van
  • Scheme: Trekking El Morado National Park, acclimatization.

Day 3: Baños Morales / El Cabrerio / Base camp

We head from Baños Morales to Cabrerio area at the San José de Maipo Valley endings. Once there, we load up the horses and then we head to our base camp (3.600masl).

  • Max altitude: 3600 masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, diner
  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van
  • Scheme: Trekking approach and acclimatization, camp set-up, cooking.

Day 4: BC / Camp 1

We move to camp1 (Plateau), place where we’ll be able to see for the first time Marmolejo’s summit.

  • Max altitude: 4100masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast,box-lunch, diner
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Trekking approach to camp 1 with expedition bag-pack on, camp set-up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 5: Camp 1 / Camp 2

  • Max altitude: 4900 masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Trekking approachto camp 2 with expedition bag-pack on, camp set-up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 6: Camp 2 / Camp high

We’ll set up a third camp at 5100masl at the very glacier itself (Marmolejo glacier).

  • Max altitude: 5100masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Trekking approachto camp high, with expedition bag-pack on, camp set-up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 7: Camp high / climb Marmolejo / Camp 2

In this day, we’ll reach for Marmolejo summit peak, which is at 6.108masl, and then head back to base camp.

  • Max altitude: 6108masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Climb Marmolejo, cooking,

Day 8: Camp 2 / Base camp

We move to base camp with all gear.

  • Max altitude: from 4900 to 3600masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: set down and up the camp, cooking, trekking back to BC

Day 9: Base Camp / Santiago /

From base camp, we’ll head right back to Santiago.

  • Max altitude: from 3600 to 500masl
  • Lodging: Hostel
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch.
  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van
  • Scheme: Trekking, drive to your hotel.

Day 10: Resting in Santiago

On this day the members are free to visit santiago and rest. around 18:00 we will have a meeting to load our vehicles and drive by night to Mendoza with all mountain gear, with this we want to avoid lose any luggage in the airport.

  • Max altitude: 500masl
  • Lodging: Hostel
  • Meals: *Breakfast at the Hostal
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Resting in Santiago, drive to mendoza by night in our vehicules, justr for HME satff and luggage of our members.

Day 11: Santiago / Mendoza / Penitentes

We travel at night to Mendoza in orther to get there in the morning to buy climbing permit.

  • Max altitude: 3200masl
  • Lodging: Refuge
  • Meals: *Box-lunch
  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van
  • Scheme: Transport to Penitentes, get the climbing permit.

Day 12: Mendoza / Penitentes

 At noon we’ll be ready with this paperwork, then we head to Penitentes village to spend the night at 3200masl.

  • Max altitude: 3200masl
  • Lodging: Refuge
  • Meals: Box-lunch
  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van
  • Scheme: Transport to Penitentes, get the climbing permit.

Day 13: Penitentes / Confluencia

We’ll head towards Confluencia Camp where we’ll acclimatize in order to not force the body into critical conditions and thus have optimal chances of success.

  • Max altitude: 3300masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Box-lunch, dinner.
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Trekking, Camp take-up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 14: Confluencia / Plaza de Mulas

We’ll start the approach towards Plaza de Mulas where we’ll set up the base camp. We’ll stay there for a couple of days.

  • Max altitude: 4,260masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down and up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 15: Plaza de Mulas / Nido de Cóndores / Plaza de Mulas

We’ll trekking to the next camp “Nido de Cóndores”. Then we’ll head back to base camp to spend the night. This is a key process to our expedition because we’ll get to a 5,300 masl and then we’ll head back to sleep at 4.260mts, which is optimal for acclimatisation work.

  • Max altitude: 5,300masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.
  • Transport: NO
  • Scheme: Aclimatization trekking, cooking.

Day 16: Plaza de Mulas / Nido de Cóndores

  • Max altitude: 5,300masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down and up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 17: Nido de Cóndores / Colera Camp

From this point we’ll be at just one camp to the final camp, Colera Camp. This camp is placed over the 5.900mts. We’ll leave early morning in order to set up this camp and then spend the night at that altitude. This camping is due to modifications according to the lead guide criteria which will take the possibility of reach summit or not from the Nido de Cóndores camp.

  • Max altitude: 5970masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down and up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 18: Colera camp / climb Aconcagua / Colera Camp

This should be the most important day of our expedition, since we’ll take it to the Aconcagua’s summit on this day. From Berlin camp to the summit is about a 1.000mts upwards which can be overpass after 10 to 12 hours hike.

  • Max altitude: 6962masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Climb Aconcagua, cooking.

Day 19: Extra Summit day Day 20 Colera camp / Plaza de Mulas

We’ll take down the high camp and head back to base camp (Plaza de Mulas).

  • Max altitude: 5300masl
  • Lodging: Mountain tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.
  • Transport: No
  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down and up, cooking.

Day 21: Plaza de Mulas / Santiago Hostel

this will be our last day in the Park, in which we will take all our equipment in a 7 hours walk to the park entrance, where will be waiting our transport.

  • Lodging: Hostel
  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch.
  • Transport: 4WD
  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down, cooking, Drive to Santiago

Day 22: Hotel / santiago airport / End of our services (OUT)

The whole group will be driven to the airport.

  • Lodging: No
  • Meals: *Breakfast
  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van
  • Scheme: Airport transfer (optional)

Includes

Includes & Not Includes

Our mountain expeditions in Aconcagua include the following services:

  • High Mountain guide (Spanish / English )
  • Mules to carrie the common and personal gear to Plaza de Mulas (BC) and Marmolejo (BC)
  • Private transportation to climbing areas (4WD or Mini Van)
  • Transfer airport
  • 1 night in Penitentes mountain refuge
  • 1 night in Baños Morales mountain refuge
  • 4 nights hostel in Santiago
  • Mountain tents (each one is for 2 persons)
  • Dinner tent (with table and chairs)
  • Foam mattress (if you requirement)
  • Cooking kit
  • All meals within the expedition (Breakfast, box lunch, diner)
  • Professional first aids kit
  • Oxygen tank
  • Heart rate monitor and oximeter
  • VHF Radio
  • Satellite radio
  • All group equipment; rope, high altitude tent, stove, GPS, etc.
  • Climbing permit in Marmolejo

Our services don’t include

  • Meals not descrived in Program (see itinerary)
  • Personal mountain equipment
  • Traveling and rescue insurances. We strongly recommend you to get them.
  • Any other service which wasn’t mentioned above. (restaurant meals, beverages , tips, laundry, etc.)
  • International and national flights and boarding fees.
  • Climbing permit in Aconcagua

More Info

More Info

Relevant information for the Aconcagua expedition

Additional information:

  • 1 guide every 3 passengers
  • Satellite phone (fees by minute usage / U$D 6)
  • 2 persons per hotel room.
  • U$ 400 per person if you want single room, please let us know
  • U$ 100 per person if you want single tent, please let us know
  • Hotel lodging includes *Breakfast (see itinerary)
  • We recommend you travel with small bills
  • Weather can get as low as -25ºC (-13ºF) in the area

Climbing permit 2011/2012, informational purposes only

  • Low season U$ 290: 15 November to 30 November and 21 February to 31 March
  • Middle season U$ 510: 1 December to 14 December and 1 February to 20 February
  • High season U$ 700: 15 December to 31 January

High Mountain Expedition is NOT responsible for:

  • Personal services (laundry, snacks, beverages, tips, etc.)
  • Personal mountain equipment
  • Expenses in case of rescue or early departure from the expedition.
  • Delays caused by your flight or any transportation issue which you are responsible for.
  • Weather changes which may affect the expedition.

Gear List

Clothing and proper equipment

We strongly recommend to all the expedition members to have the mountain equipment described below.

Upper body parts

  • Sun hat
  • Wool hat
  • Balaclava / ski mask
  • 2 or 3 long sleeve polypropylene shirts (or similar)
  • Polar windstopper (or similar)
  • Waterproof jacket (Gore Tex, Triple Point, or similar)
  • Down feather parka with hood
  • Polypropylene gloves
  • Waterproof gloves
  • Down feather mittens (Tº -20 or lower)

Down body parts

  • 2 polypropylene long underwear (or similar)
  • 1 trekking pants
  • Windproof pants (Gore Tex, Triple Point, or similar)
  • 3 or 4 pairs thin socks (Liners)
  • 3 or 4 pairs of thermal socks
  • Gaiters
  • Trekking boots (approach)
  • Mountain boots (double plastic boots)

Personal equipment

  • Ice axe (75 cm or more)
  • Crampones
  • Trekking stick (telescopic)
  • Sleeping bag (Tº lower than -20ºC)
  • Inflatable and foam mattress
  • Expedition backpack (80 liters aprox.)
  • Duffel
  • Daypack (40 liters aprox.)
  • Headlamp (and extra batteries)
  • Sunglasses (category 3 or 4)
  • Goggles
  • 2 bottles of water (1 liter each)
  • Thermos flask (1 liter)
  • Sunscreen (SPF 40)
  • Lips sunscreen (SPF 30) (Blistex)
  • Whistle, emergency mirror, and pocket knife
  • Toiletries
  • Digital camera, a book, mp3, Binoculars. [optional]
  • Personal repair kit

Photos








Fixed Departures

March
El Plomo20/03/2019
April
llullaillaco07/04/2019
May
Sajama20/02/2019
June
Tocllaraju09/06/2019
Quitaraju13/06/2019
Alpamayo17/06/2019
July
Llullaillaco14/07/2019
Llullaillaco28/07/2019

Testimonies

Av. Salvador 838, Providencia – Santiago, Chile
Phone: (+56 2) 2 209 61 75
Email: [email protected]

 

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