Essential Technical Equipment to Climb Ojos del Salado
(Complement to the previous blog post about clothing, which you can read here)
Climbing Ojos del Salado, the highest active volcano on the planet and one of South America’s most imposing peaks, requires more than just good physical preparation. Choosing the right technical equipment is key to facing high mountain terrain, which can be rocky, dry, snowy, or even mixed, depending on the year and season.
In this article, we will go deeper into the most important technical elements you should consider. For mountain clothing, footwear, and thermal layers, we invite you to check our previous article dedicated exclusively to essential clothing for Ojos del Salado.
Ice Axe
The ice axe is a fundamental tool in high mountain climbs, and Ojos del Salado is no exception. Its importance increases in years with more snow or ice, especially in the final sections towards the summit – something that happens more often than it seems.
In certain seasons, conditions can be very dry, allowing climbers to reach the summit without using it. However, this is never guaranteed. The ice axe is key for facing sections with hard snow, ice, or exposed slopes, as well as improving your balance and stopping a potential fall.
Additionally, when crossing small glaciers — which can happen in years with higher accumulation — the ice axe is part of the technical safety system along with the harness, rope, carabiners, crampons, and prusik. Therefore, our recommendation is clear: even if sometimes it’s not used, it should always be carried. It’s not enough to check the forecast or rely on reports from other groups, as high-altitude conditions can change within days.
A classic-technical ice axe, between 55 and 65 cm, will be sufficient for this type of ascent. If you don’t have one or need to rent it, we can help you arrange it.
Climbing Helmet
Indispensable. In rocky sections, such as the couloir towards the summit, there is a risk of rockfall, especially when there are other climbers above you. A lightweight and resistant helmet is highly recommended.
Crampons
Crampons are another essential item in snowy or icy conditions. At Ojos del Salado, their necessity depends on the year, but it is common to find sections where their use becomes indispensable, especially near the summit or when crossing areas with compact snow.
They must be compatible with your boots, ideally semi-automatic or automatic. It is very important to know how to fit them properly and to have practiced before the expedition.
Harness
Using a harness is recommended for climbing sections near the summit and, in some cases, for roping up while crossing the glacier, if conditions require it. It is a safety measure that can make a big difference in the event of any unforeseen situation.
Carabiners and Prusik Cord
Carrying at least two locking carabiners (HMS type) and two prusik cords can be useful for securing passages or as a basic rescue measure. They are lightweight but highly valuable technical gear.
This technical equipment complements the clothing and basic gear described in our previous article (don’t forget to check it out!). A safe expedition begins with being well-informed and well-equipped.
If you have any questions about equipment, need more personalized guidance, or simply lack any technical item and need to rent it, do not hesitate to contact us. We are here to help you prepare your expedition with everything you need.
